This information was gleamed from the IWill forum at PC Perspective. I hope it helps you as much as it did me.
I got so bored offshore that I decided to take all the (I thought) relevant info relating to the IWill XP333r from the forum and put it all on the one post. But I never got round to posting it, so I thought I would up load it here. Hope it helps the newbie's. (Have given mentions where appropriate).
Motherboard Model / Revision XP333r V2.1
Bios version 1220/2.31 Raid mod bios
CPU MHz (Locked / Unlocked) 2400+ Unlocked @11x200=2200
Memory 512Mb DBLS Samsung DDR 333 SiSoft Mem Band 2780/2546
Advanced Chipset Features (2.5, N, E, E, E, 2.5, 7.16, D, 128, -1, Mid, D, 1us, D, D)
Video card Agp Enabled/Disabled Ati Connect 3D Radeon 9500
Video card driver version Wizards's Hacked Catalyst 3.6
Operating system's running XP Sp1\ Win Me
Hard Disc's make & size. Raid version 2xWD800JB Raid0 2.31Hpt Driver
Power supply & Wattage 431Watt Enermax
Any Modifications V.Dimm Mod
Other oddities
When posting a new thread in a forum for help try and list your signature as above. This way the IWillian's (Or others) will be able to offer more helpful advice if they know what hardware/software is in your system.
DDR RAM
Make sure the DDR (memory) is inserted all the way. If possible push the memory home hard when the motherboard is out off the case, Push it so that it feels like the board is going to crack, preferably out of the case, lying on a flat insulated surface. The memory slots on this board are tight, really tight. (A lot of user problems are with memory not seated correctly. Beeping) See the IWill Beep Code Chart for any troubleshooting.
If you have possible memory problems.............. then try moving the ram stick to another slot.
Rule of thumb is DDR should always be installed in slot 1 (0) nearest the Cpu for best performance. If 2 sticks then slots 1/3 (0/2 in the manual)
PC2100 DDR266 (133Mhz)
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PC2700 DDR333 (166Mhz)
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PC3000 DDR366 (183Mhz)
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PC3200 DDR400 (200Mhz)
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PC3500 DDR433 (216Mhz)
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PC3700 DDR466 (233Mhz)
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The highest ever Fsb that anyone has attained on xp333 is 215 stable (to date) so bear that in mind when purchasing DDR for this board. If you spend high money's on high fsb DDR for this board, you will probably be wasting it and your time. 215fsb is it unless you want to boot with 5x-6x multiplier and then you might get 220, but only then.
What type of DDR you are going to put in this mobo (again check the forums) PC2100 DDR266 "will" slot in and run at its rated speed. BUT if you decide to go for flavours faster than this, then that's when its time for a little Oc. Next up is PC2700 DDR333 when you slot this in the mobo at defaults then it will only post at DDR266 or 133fsb. To get it to run at its rated speed (DDR333 or 166fsb) you have to have an unlocked cpu, multiplier dropped and the Fsb increased manually to 166. This pretty much applies to all the flavours of DDR except of course the 133 stuff. Obviously the faster the ram then the higher you "should" be able to get the Fsb, (See above paragraph) also the faster you push the Fsb then the more instabilities will be found, IWill have provided for this by giving the option to Over Volt the DDR by use of the V.Dimm Jumpers to smooth out any DDR problems, rule of thumb here is move both the Jp10 Vio memory voltage jumpers on 5-6 and 2-3 all the way to the right for 2.8 volts straight of the bat. (99% of Xp333r users will agree with this). This is undocumented in the manual.
Concerning the new PC 3200/3500/3700 flavours. I have seen lots of people having problems with this type of memory in xp333 (saying that lots of people have great success). Its hard to say what the problems are. But I think that as with a lot of the IWill mobos, they are all very particular off which memory is used in them. Rather than going by the rated ram on IWill's site its always better to browse the mobo specific forums and see what others are running successfully (via there signature. etc). Don't skimp on DDR, buy good quality stuff, next to your cpu its probably the most important bit of hardware in your system. Most of the time DDR likes the higher Voltage hence the 2.8v on XP333r.
Multiple Sticks of DDR...
If you intend to run more than one stick of DDR then be aware that XP333 will lose out on Memory Bandwidth. A few users do run with 2 sticks. (Most just the one stick) But be aware of the limitations in the earlier bios (if you use these) which until 0411/1220 were too aggressive to run more than 1 stick, or certain flavours of DDR. If you going to run 2/3 sticks of DDR then you should flash to 0411/1220 for your bios to recognise the full amount of memory. I have only heard of a few users successfully running 3 sticks of DDR in XP333, and as with 2 sticks, to get decent Memory Bandwidth scores they had to use the Reg Hacks using Wpcrset. Also running 2 sticks works better in slots 1&3. (Slots 0&2 in the Manual).
Preacher Phil............
This hack is for multiple sticks of ram. If your memory scores are low and you have artefacts on screen (gaming etc) when you have pushed the Fsb as far as you can get it, then apply this reg hack 78-40 (See WpcrEdit/Set) this will allow you to push the Fsb further and smooth out any other problems you are having.
ACF:- Advanced Chipset Features
A good reference to set your ACF settings in the bios are as follows, these should get you going until you see if you can tweak more out of the DDR. RGone....
DRAM CAS Select
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[CAS=2.5]
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Dram Performance
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[Normal]
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Dram Read Enhance
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[Enabled]
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Dram WBUF Flush
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[Enabled]
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RAM BIU Output Bypass Mode
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[Enabled]
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RAM BIU Input Bypass Mode
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[CAS=2.5]
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AT Bus Clock
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[7.16]
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System BIOS Cacheable
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[Disabled]
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AGP Aperture Size
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[128MB]
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AGP Delay Offset
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[-1]
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AGP Driving Strength
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[Mid]
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Memory Hole At 15M-16M
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[Disabled]
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I/O Recovery Period
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[1us]
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Passive Release
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[Disabled]
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CPU Thermal Throttle
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[Disabled]
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Mostly these are good start settings for newb's. But with the newer and faster flavours of DDR available then of course a bit of testing and trying is needed. For the most part the only settings that would be changed from above would be.
DRAM CAS Select
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[CAS=2.5]
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to [CAS=2]
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Dram Performance
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[Normal]
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to [Fast] [Faster] [Ultra] etc
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And possibly the Agp Driving Strength, depending on how much SDRam/DDR your Graphics card has on board.
If your DDR can run at aggressive settings, then be aware that the Fsb will not be raised as high as it would be with less aggressive settings.
One other important thing to note here is that RAM BIU Input Bypass Mode @ [CAS=2.5] should ALWAYS be set to [CAS=2.5] not [CAS=2] as you would think. It is faster even in the newer bios. From the earliest bios days that setting has always been reversed and [CAS=2.5] is the specific setting that is always the faster. To my knowledge no bios has corrected that error. Strange but the xp333r has always been a peculiar beast. RGone.....
As with all DDR if it's going to be Oc then its best to burn it in using MemTest or a similar program. Start off slow and gradually increase the Fsb, a burn in overnight is usually enough before moving up a few fsb.
Off course you could use the Asynch option and not mess around with the ACF, but Asynch has a terrible impact on performance and should be avoided. All it does after all is display DDR332 (Which IWill needed for Marketing purposes) at post, this doesn't mean it actually runs at 333fsb (See RGone & Asynch Mode).
Here is a screen shot of the Asynch option in the bios. Its just for reference as nobody ever uses this option, always set it "By Iwill Function".
XP333 Bios...
Most will agree that the new 0411 and 1220 bios are the ones to use. 0411 is getting a bit long in the tooth now with the majority of users flashing the 1220 as it recognises the new Tbred cpu's. Just to clear up some confusion here, the 1220 bios is virtually the same as the 0411 bios. The only difference between the 2 is that that the 1220 recognises a Tbred cpu at post and displays it (up to 2600+) where as the 0411 displays "Unknown Processor", that's the only difference. Otherwise you can use either bios. As I said already most just flash to the 1220 for ease of use.
Note: Even though the Barton cpu's run on XP333, the 1220 bios does not recognise these cpu's. You get the "Unknown Processor" at boot, to me this is not a prob, but it might be to those users that like "everything" perfect. It works and that is all that matters, maybe IWill will release a bios that will recognise the Barton microcode, though I wouldn't hold my breath. End of the day 1220 works and I don't really need to see the "Barton" cpu's displayed at post.
If you are wary of flashing your bios and need some help go here (Custom Bios Flash) If its a new mobo then only use 1 stick of ram in the slot nearest the CPU, to get you going (Preferably a 256Mb stick, most of the older bios except the 0411/1220 had problems with 512mb sticks. Unless you know which bios your Mobo is running then be aware of this.
Off course if your bios is pre 0411/1220 and its only a 512mb stick you should be able to boot to flash. But if not then you will have to borrow a 256mb stick to boot, then flash your bios to 0411/1220, then remove 256mb stick and replace with 512mb.
If you intend to flash your bios to the newer 0411/1220 then only use 1 stick until you have flashed.
All of the bios available for Xp333r are available from the Download Section. If you can't find the version you are looking for then ask me across at PC Perspective Forums in the IWill motherboards section. Or mail me loggan26atyahoo.co.uk and I will mod one for you.
If you decide Flashing the Bios is for you, then read the Custom Flash Bios.
PROBLEMS FLASHING BIOS? RESET V.Dimm jumpers to 2.5V then clear cmos.
A few Xp333's shipped with cmos battery that were defective, if you are having problems flashing, then try removing the battery and replacing with a new one.
All bios for Rev 2.1 xp333's are compatible with Rev 2.0 mobos. So flash till your hearts content.
ALL XP333r Bios are compatible with the XP333 mobos. Rev 2.1 & 2.0 only though.
IF YOU HAVE A REV1.0 BOARD THEN DO NOT FLASH WITH ANY OF THE BIOS IN THE DOWNLOAD SECTION THEY ARE FOR 2.0/2.1 BOARDS ONLY.
TBred & Barton Update..............
If you are a regular across at AMD IWill forums then you will have no doubt seen the thread "Its official Barton cpu works on XP333". With so many unanswered questions on whether this was a feasible combo, I decided that with prices on the 1700+ Tbred and 2500+ Barton dropping to an all time low it was about time to get some questions answered. Dropping a 1700+ Tbred in first with the Fsb Jp31 removed and no unlock was no problem, it posted first time checked through the range of multis that she posted on each and found it plain sailing, great cpu as it comes factory unlocked and has the 0.13 micron so temps are really low and these cpu's have been pushed to 2400Mhz speeds, not bad for a £40:00 chip. I REPEAT I did not UNLOCK the 1700+ Tbred as it comes factory unlocked. All multipliers were available in my multicapable XP333r straight of the bat. The only thing I usually do different when I install a new cpu is, the "Insert Key trick" at post so that XP333 boots with default settings and I enter bios immediately after the first beep to set the new cpu's default multi and Fsb. The reason I do that is that I have a higher success rate when trying to get a new cpu to post.
Next came the 2500+ (333fsb) Barton core cpu. This was the one that we all wanted to know about as the Tbred's have been around for awhile (as have the rumours of having too unlock them). We all looking to the next gene Amd and we haven't even got the use of the old Tbred ones yet.
So of the bat I set the Fsb Jp31 to the 100fsb setting and had the wire in the socket for the 5x-12.5x unlock. Every other setting in the bios was as my sig at the forum, remembering that the 11x200fsb was standard on my board and I hadn't degraded that beforehand. I hit the Insert Key right away (as above) and I got the beep for post, I entered the bios right away and set to the 2500+ defaults which were 11x166fsb and the divider at auto, all other settings were the usual. Saved and Reboot and bingo, we got post. As the Tbred I checked all multis and they worked fine. Next just to check (as we are answering unanswered questions here) I removed the Fsb Jp31 and it still posted fine. After speaking to GeForce11 at the above mentioned thread I decided to remove the unlock (wire in the socket) and to get the stepping code that I had initially forgotten to write down. It posted no problems.
So there you have it, to get this particular Barton cpu (2500+) to post I had to do nothing on the MULTICAPABLE XP333r. No Unlock. No FSB Jp31. (It was removed completely)
In theory the 2600+/2800+ (333fsb) Barton's should also post with NO UNLOCK and NO FSB Jp31. The reason being is quite simply they have a default multi of 11.5X/12.5X and as we all know the XP333's ceiling is the 12.5X multi, (unless you have a Modded board from IWill) so you should be good to go on these cpu's with a minimum of fuss. Hope this helps with some questions you have on the Tbred & Barton Cpu's.
Oh one other thing I plumped for the 2500+ (333fsb) cpu as I had read it was the same as the 1600+ Palamino/1700+ Tbred, very OverClockable. They were correct I pushed that 2500+ Barton to 2400MHZ on air, and remember that its default speed is 1800Mhz, YEAH a 600Mhz OC on air superb...........
Update: the new 400fsb Barton's with default multis below 13X should in theory be PlugnPlay as well. These are still expensive cpu's as off 25/06/03 so we will have to wait a little while until prices drop before someone can test this theory.
Minimum Spec...
The best way to do a clean install is to go with a barebones setup. Use the minimum spec until you have Winblows installed i.e. 350watt quality Psu (Minimum), CD-ROM, Graphics card, Floppy drive, Hdd/s), 1 stick memory, and all bios settings to default. All jumpers on board to default as well. Disable all ports/usb/sound in the bios also. If you follow this guide then your CPU and ram will not read correct at post, this is because you will be running 100fsb under default bios settings. Don’t worry. Once windows is up and running you can change it to 133 or whatever you wish.
Remove Fsb jumper Jp31...For all Cpu's (Except 2400+) Yes remove it completely. (Set Fsb in the bios manually under the IWill Smart Settings). It defaults to 100fsb on either setting and causes problems when booting so remove it.
Notice:- If you are running a 2400+ then you will have to enable the Jp31 to 100fsb position, this is the only way to get 2400+ to boot on XP333r.
Update: Looks like Jp31 should be removed for 2600+ (266) and the Barton core cpu's as well.
Highpoint Bios...
For the best performance on a raid array you should use the same Windoze Highpoint driver version as the Highpoint Bios Utility Version. Example. At boot you will see the version on the Highpoint Bios Utility displayed on the 2nd post screen i.e. 2.31/2.32/2.34. (Only if you have Jp32 enabled)
Make sure you install the same version of Windoze Highpoint Driver as the Hpt Utility Version. If you wish to try a different Highpoint Bios Utility Version then simply download one of the Moded Bios from my Download page and flash to it, match it with the Windows Hpt driver and your set. Download Windows Hpt drivers also from the Downloads page.
Maxtor DiamondMax Plus D740X Ata 133 and Raid0
There were a ton of these things sold around about the time the Xp333 first arrived and after. Just to let folks know that when the these Maxtor's are set as Raid0 on xp333 the benches and results are poor due to Pci latency problem and the Ali chipset. RGone and a few others addressed this problem with 4 1/2 months of testing and benching with the end result of his "Pci red nake patch". But not for these drives. Note: even after all that testing it still turned out that the Maxtor's were quicker running as single drives than raid0. This is not advertising a fix, its just to let folks know when purchasing this mobo and said Hdd, maybe alternatives would be a better choice. Western Digital JB's SE shift some booty on xp333.
Single HDD...
If you intend to run one hard drive then connect it to the blue Ide0 jumpered as Master. The CD-ROM (Or optical) to the other blue Ide1. (Jumpered respectively as Master or Slave. DO NOT attach optical drives to the Yellow Raid Ide’s, only attach hard drives to the Yellow Raid Ide’s if using them). As said above the D740X Maxtor's run nicely as Single drives, so if a single drive is for you, then these might be viable option.
CDROM/Optical Drives...
Try not to have a CD-ROM or optical drive daisy chained to a HDD IDE ribbon cable, try and keep them on separate Ide’s. If you do mix them, try and keep say your CDROM/DVD on the one IDE and your Hdd's on the other IDE. The old wives rumour used to be if you mix and match CDROM/DVD/HDD on the same Ribbon then your ATA100 HDD will only be running as fast as your ATA33 CD-ROM. That was true a good few years ago but not now. You can run a CDROM & Hdd on same cable with no loss of performance. (The only noticeable loss would be if you are trying to copy to and fro the same devices on the Ide cable. Which would obviously result in slower performance. If you can, try and keep CDROM/DVD separate from HDD IDE. Ideally keep them all on there own Ide's.
IWill Orb...
The IWill Orb is slightly concave and there is no heat compound on it to seat it coolly on the Northbridge, its next to useless as it comes out of the box. Users have been removing the fan and lapping the Northbridge a little, then adding some Arctic Silver 3, replace the fan and your good to go. Also a few users have had there fans failing (for no reason), they have just removed the Orb and replaced with the Vantec ICEBERQ VGA / Chipset cooler or stuck on a passive heatsink (which most say is better than the Orb anyhow, less noise).
Pci Slots, Hardware & IRQ's...
If you intend on installing Pci devices then remember and get Windoze installed first. Yes that's remove all Pci Hardware and disable the USB/C-media Sound/Printer & Serial Ports in the bios before installing Windoze. Once Winblows is installed successfully, then install your Pci Hardware & drivers one at a time including enabling USB/C-media Sound/Printer & Serial Ports one at a time also. Reboot between each install of Hardware. The reason for this is too minimise IRQ conflicts. Winblows will just assign as much hardware as it likes to the same IRQ, if you have all your Hardware plugged in and enabled before install of Winblows. Not a smart way to set up a rig for trouble free performance. Also the following Pci slots on xp333 share IRQ's for your reference.
Pci1 & Pci5 & AGP
Pci2 & Raid Controller (Pci6)
Pci3 & C-Media on Board Sound (Pci7)
Pci4 & USB (Pci8)
Running the XP333r mobo there is only one way to fly on her and that's with an unlocked cpu, so keep that in mind.
That pretty much covers stuff you should address, prior to power on.
Here’s a pic of the Raid Xp333. Below
PRESS THE POWER BUTTON
Once you press the power button the Xp333 fires up, fans turn, lights come on, Hdd spin up and then it likes to sit for about 2/3 seconds before you here a short beep and the monitor comes to life. (This is a normal boot) Or (See below for troubleshooting).
IWill Beep Codes for trouble shooting
AWARD BIOS
Beep Sound Message
1 short (Beep) System booting is normal
2 short (Beep) CMOS setting error
1 long - 1 short (Beep) DRAM ERROR
1 long - 2 short (Beep) Display card or monitor connected error
1 long - 3 short (Beep) Keyboard Error
1 long - 9 short (Beep) ROM Error
Long (Beep) continuous DRAM hasn't been inserted correctly
Short (Beep) continuous POWER supply has problem
AMI BIOS
1 short (Beep) DRAM Flash Error
2 short (Beep) DRAM ECC Check Error
3 short (Beep) DRAM Detect Fail
5 short (Beep) CPU Error
6 short (Beep) Keyboard Error
8 short (Beep) Display card memory Error
9 short (Beep) ROM Error
1 long - 3 short (Beep) DRAM Damage
1 long - 8 short (Beep) Display card or monitor connected error
(On new boards/new bios flashes) You should be told that the CPU has changed, once it has booted and you need to press the Delete key to enter the bios and set the correct settings. Do it. Your Advanced Chipset Features can be set like THIS. And your IWill Smart Setting can be set like THIS. Scroll down to the Advanced Settings to change your First Boot Device to Floppy. (To partition your Hdd's)) or (If you want too flash your bios then also change the Select BIOS-Flashable and change to Enable in the IWill Smart Settings. Press F10 to save settings and exit.
(For Raid Boards Only)
Enable the raid Jp32 jumper on the motherboard so that when you boot you are able to enter your Raid bios to setup an Array. If not enabled then the system will (try) boot as normal.
Once you have rebooted, at the bios screen press Ctrl and M to enter the Highpoint Bios. Create the Array.
I’m assuming most users will be trying to install XP so here goes. (You should have a win98 boot floppy or something similar if not download the Customised XP Disc (For all flavours of Windoze) and expand it to a blank floppy). Insert your new boot floppy when ready and reboot your Pc. (Enter bios if the First Boot Device is not changed to Floppy and enable appropriately) F10 to Save & Exit.
Once rebooted, the Floppy will stop to let you verify your CDROM drive letters. Just press any key to continue. Now you should be looking at the A:/> prompt, type fdisk and hit Enter. Choose Y for Fat 32. Create a 10 Gig Primary Partition (Xp). Make it bootable. (You can either create Extended Partitions at this stage or wait until you have XP up and running) Ctrl, Alt, Del to Exit and restart.
If you do not know how to use fdisk or set up partitions then go HERE for some understanding.
Again with the Custom Floppy inserted, when you get to the A:/> prompt type format c: /z:16 or whatever is relevant to your Highpoint Stripe. When it’s done name the partition, (Again at this stage you can format other extended partitions you have already created if you wish) Esc to Exit. Ctrl/Alt/Del to Reboot.
Enter bios and change the First Boot Device to CD-ROM. Insert XP CD. (Remove Custom Floppy) F10 to Save and Exit. Press any key to boot from CD-ROM message appears. Do it
THE WORST CULPRIT I HAVE FOUND IS ACPI. However you spell it. The advanced power features of WinXP. If you cannot get through the initial install of XP hit F7 at the blue screen to disable ACPI.
For Raid (or Scsi) devices press F6 and insert your Windoze Highpoint driver floppy when prompted. Hit S to install the Highpoint driver and ignore the Windoze warning XP has its own driver. S again and files will be loaded.
Follow instructions to continue install, F8 to agree, choose partition to install to (C:). Choose Leave current File System in place, Windoze will install files to Hdd. After you have filled in the relevant info and configured your install, Winblows will reboot (couple of times). And you should be at your desktop ready to rock!
Once you have XP on there. (Do not install the Ali IDE driver, part of the Integrated Driver)
Install the Ali Agp 1.091 driver, then DirectX9 if you are using a Graphics card that supports it (Ati 9700), then the Graphics card driver. Enable/Install all your Pci/Peripherals one at a time. A reboot between each install of drivers/software for less hassles. Check for instabilities. Install your software/Apps. Upgrade to Sp1..
Ali IDE...
The boat is still out on this one. Most users I think prefer not to install the Ali Ide driver, for the amount of hassle it causes it just isn't worth installing, while other users claim that without it XP333 will not run at UDMA 5/6. Its up to you. Personally I tried each version and was never happy with the results, so I have went with Windoze Xp canned defaults instead. But in case you wish to try (against all reasoning) here you go. The integrated driver will ask if you wish to install Ali Ide/Agp, I just chose the Agp. The 1.40 miniport driver is the canned version that comes with Xp, so need to install it from the disk.
Ali 1.091 links!
ftp://www.ali.com.tw/driver/Integrated1.091.exe
ftp://ftp.aliusa.com/driver/Integrated1.091.exe
Most users if using the Ali Ide use the 1.40 version (mini port) as this does not change your devices to Scsi Hdd in the Device Manager like the 1.70/1.90. It seems these are the most stable if using the Ali Ide. And they come on the Cdrom that came supplied with Xp333. Or "canned" in XP.
Update: The new Ali 2.05 Integrated driver is available from here for download.
Note: If you have installed Ali Ide, and find your CdRw Drive is not working the way it should. Download ASPI Drivers and install them and that should help. Another is to make sure you have your Pci Divider set to Auto, while burning.
After install of Xp change your First boot device in the bios to Raid100 once you are happy your system is stable.
RGone talks of asynchronous mode.
Can you think of any reason why you hear little about the asynchronous mode? Most likely cause is that none really use it, as it is semi-useless to those wanting to get the XP333 to bulge its' muscles.
Asynchronous means not at the same time. Or perhaps not at the same speed in this case. The memory runs at one speed and the CPU is timed and running at a lower bus speed.
Now you want a little of what I consider to be the hype behind this and the XP333 mobo? The first original shipping XP333's had no place in the bios that would allow for this asynchronous mode and hence few people could get any setting on the XP333 to run near 166mhz anything for a buss speed. On the 166FSB setting in asynchronous mode was there but the poor memory nearly 18 months ago and the over aggressive memory timings provided by Iwill in the bios just about made 166mhz, or when converted to DDR terms "DDR333," something none but a few could reach and hence the hype of "DDR333."
Later IWill, to an extent mastered the Asynch setting or at least added it as a "setting" in the bios and doing so allowed the memory to be said to run at the hyped "DDR333" speed but this really did little for the ability of the mobo to do powerful work or run the benchmarks at a level close to or equal to the KT266A chipset mother boards.
Time and much experimentation by many in this forum and the release of better memory allowed for the abandonment of the "asynchronous" mode and the move to settings that would help to produce some muscles for the XP333 series of mobo.
Asynch running of memory at a speed faster than the speed governing the clock of the CPU has been around for years. In 'most' cases where I have tried to use it, even as far back as socket 7 days, the using did not produce much measurable power increase and such it was with the XP333 but the setting in the bios and the reporting of "your memory is running @DDR333" as the computer booted was what IWill needed to complete the hype of the DDR333 mobo.
Most of the users you see post, and I would think that might also include most non-posting users, have long since abandoned the idea of the Asynch mode and gone on to running the cpu bus and the memory bus at the same synchronous speed and "it" as fast as they can with unlocked cpu's and dropped multipliers in order to get some punch out of the XP333 mobo.
All of that points to running the synch mode of memory and CPU bus speed at the same MHz and get you some horsepower otherwise you certainly will not get your video card to do benches near what they might do.
That is it in a nutshell so to speak and I have never booted my XP333 one time in Asynch mode. What the first adventurer’s uncovered and posted quickly moved the hardcore XP333'er to synch mode and fast memory with Over-Volting where necessary to get the power to get good benches. RGone........
If your cpu is not reading its correct speed at post then chances are that the Fsb jumper is still on the board even after I have told you to remove it. If you have DDR2700 Ram and above, and at post it reads DDR266 and you are going WTF then you have to go HERE to understand why.
RGone...talks of Oc.
OK on to Overclocking theory or is it principle? Your XP1800 is really running at 1533mhz or an 11.5 multiplier times 133mhz FSB for the total of 1533 MHz and is Amd rated @XP1800. On the XP333 mobo with FSB set to 140FSB the cpu is communicated with @280mhzDDR'd and the CPU is communicated with @ 280mhzDDR'd again 2X140FSB.
Now with the multiplier being "locked" any FSB you set will be multiplied times 11.5 to attain the MHz that the Cpu will run or "try" to run at. My guess is with a super HSF combo your XP1800 (1533mhz) will likely reach 1700mhz by combination of 11.5 X? I think likely 145FSB times 11.5 which is 1667mhz should boot and run stable likely. Now 11.5 X 148FSB equals 1702mhz which I am also fairly certain your Cpu should function at and with the ACF = set as you see in my Sig the memory should "easily" do that number. 1700 real MHz equates about to an XP2000+ 1/2. Hahaha. Sorry do not have any idea what the bios will show probably 2000+. This will likely bring Sandra mem test Version 2002 into the 2000/1850 range. This purely a guess as there are a few variables.
The 0411 bios by default when read with the third party proggie shows register 61 as 6C again I say by default. At least if my memory is correct it is set to that. It is possible that setting register 61 to 4C might pick up the Sandra mem score some and it might not. I would only say try that with Wpcredit as a test and then if 61=4C is better than 61=6C I would use Wpcrset to allow the registry to be changed at boot up. Reason I am not sure is that the "regular" mobo bios makes the registry changes as well and it changes setting according to FSB, memory settings and actually a couple of other things.
For instance I have been running some other chipset registry changes that most don't run and when I again decide to go over 192FSB with my "unlocked" cpu, I found that the 61=4C that had been "better" for me with my other changes. Suddenly needed to be changed back to 61=6C to get my Sandra mem scores back up and not "lose" 400 points. These are things that caused me to say earlier that you must get your "hands" on the mobo if you want to run super benches. I do not have your computer in front of me and if I did and your cpu was unlocked in less than 4-6 minutes I could tell you how fast it was going to go. But I am not there and neither are any of the other Oc genius's of which I do not claim to be, but they would do the same things I would do very likely.
I crashed my XP333R so hard during 4 1/2 months of hard drive testing that it would scramble the bios and cause me to have to re-flash the bios just to get the board back up. So I have seen some settings more than once. You must do the same if you want to learn it. I don't mean test drives for 4 1/2 months or crash the heck out of your computer, BUT how do you think I know how far mine will go? Because I have taken it as HI as it WILL go. Wind has overcome me again and apologies are extended, but when learning I feel to give enough info that one can sink or swim. RGone........
Update on Rev 2.1 Hardwired Locked Mobos.
Over the past few months there have been an influx of "fixed" xp333 mobo's on the market. Most recently Newegg had a heap of them and were selling them at "dirt cheap" prices. These "fixed" boards are the result of the newer Tbred cpu's and the further release of the 1220 bios, IWill must have had a $hit load of Xp333's left and seen an opportunity to offload them. New Xp333 boards are Hardwired "fixed" to allow the cpu's up to 2600+ 266fsb to be slotted in and go. Now this is good for longevity of the xp333 but unfortunately IWill neglected to tell anyone that these Hardwired boards do not allow you to change the multiplier in the bios. WTF!!!!!!! yup these new neutered boards do not allow multiplier changing in the bios.
The boards looks the exact same and every option that a non neutered board has is there in the bios, but using the multipliers on an unlocked Cpu still results in a No Boot. (Black Screen).
So how do you know if you bought a neutered xp333. If its new (recent) & shipped with a 1220 bios & some added documentation stating it will run up to a 2600+(266fsb), then there is a good chance its neutered. If it has the 0411 bios or older its a good chance its non neutered. But the best way to find out is to unlock a Cpu and try and boot it with the multi changed from default.
Unfortunately "we" don't know of any physical changes to the board that can be seen to tell the differences from neutered/non neutered.
GeForce11 Mod......Update........
On neutered Xp333's all is not lost for those that still want to get the mobo too still flex its muscles, you can use the wire in the socket method that GeForce11 first discovered and now These guys will show you exactly which wires to insert in which socket for any multiplier. Excellent find by GeForce11. This will allow the neutered boards to run as high a fsb as the multicapable boards.
How to Oc the Xp333
V1.0 Xp333 mobos supports only Palomino cpu's up to 1900+. No Tbred, no Barton because V1.0 bios cannot decipher the microcode of these CPUs. You need a V2.0/2.1 mobo to use Tbred and Barton CPUs.
There are really 2 ways to go about the Oc thing.
1st is to Oc the MHz on the Cpu by increasing the multiplier in the bios up from its default, thus making it run faster than its rated for. BE WARNED If you do not have a good Heatsink/Fan solution you could damage your cpu beyond repair/warranty. As MHz increases then so does the heat. So be aware of this and get a decent HSF combo.
2nd is to increase the Fsb. As you up the Fsb the memory bandwidth increases. BUT your Pci/Agp/Hdd buss also run off the Fsb so when Oc the Fsb, then these devices start to run out of spec. Hence the Pci Dividers. These allow the Fsb to be increased and keep the Pci buss at (close to) default speeds/MHz. Pci bus runs at 33Mhz, Agp is double that so 66Mhz.
So a quick explanation to see if you are grasping this, I'll take a 1800+ cpu which has a 11.5x multiplier as its default. Its normal Fsb is 133 so 133x11.5=1530Mhz default that's an 1800's rated speed.
Example 1. Now if we speed things up. Assume the Cpu is locked. Up the Fsb to 166x11.5=1909Mhz Wow a 400Mhz Oc but probably not practical unless you have exceptional cooling. The stepping of the Cpu is important as to how well it will Oc, so if its a crap stepping, then a crap Oc. Good = good Oc. Also your cooling solution again impacts on how far you can Oc cpu. Increasing the Fsb to 166 on a locked cpu is highly unlikely as it would get fast/HOT/Unstable really quickly. So to attain 166, unlocking the Cpu and lowering the multiplier to keep the MHz close to stock value, while increasing the Fsb is the only way to get there.
At the same time we could go the other way and increase the multiplier while leaving/increasing the Fsb. Of course changing the default multi can only be achieved by unlocking (Or running a TBred/Barton as they come ready locked from the factory) the Cpu (On the XP333). 133x12.5 = 1663MHz about as high a multi you could use on the xp333 as it wont allow the use of the 14x, 15x multipliers even though they show in the bios (remapped elsewhere). As you can see the Oc is not going to be as high increasing the multiplier, but that is due mainly to the fact that xp333 does not support multipliers above 12.5x.
(Be aware that there is no 12.5x multi in the bios, it goes 11-11.5-12-13-14-15, so how do you get the 12.5 multi? Use the 13x, the bios defaults to 12.5x, the highest working multiplier on xp333. Tried & tested.
Yes you could just increase both multis & Fsb as high as they will go in the bios, but a no boot would probably result from this, pushing the envelope is all very well but you have to have (common ground) a stable system to use in the first place. Yes?
Hopefully you can see where this is leading, a compromise between both options. Increase the Fsb and lower the multiplier. This gives the higher memory bandwidth without Oc the cpu too far.
If the cpu is Oc too far then it will give you stability problems, no boots, crashing etc...a way around getting it to run more stable at faster MHz is to give it more V.Core Voltage. IWill thoughtfully gave the Xp333 bios the option of Cpu V.Core Setting that can be ramped from 1.125v to 1.850v also there is the Enable V.Core 10% option which will give you that bit more voltage to cpu. Some xp333's came with Jp15 pins (undocumented) between the PCi1 & PCi2 slots, this allowed you to insert a jumper on the pins and give even more Over Volting to the cpu. I think with all these options enabled at there highest settings this gave a V.Core of roughly 2.04v not bad if u needed it. Again running all that voltage through a cpu is going to make the temps run sky high, so you got to have a good cooling solution.
Here is a screenshot of the CPU Vcore Setting in the bios.
PCI Dividers
Here is a screenshot of the Pci Clock Divider option in the bios. To date the Xp333 is the only mobo with a functioning 1/6th Divder.
Now again when Oc as said earlier, your Pci/Agp buss is also increased so IWill have provided the Pci Clock Dividers to run hardware in spec.
@ 133fsb/4divisor=33Mhz
@ 166fsb/5divisor=33Mhz
@ 200fsb/6divisor=33Mhz
Or you could just leave the Pci Clock Divider at Auto. Some hardware can be pushed to higher MHz. (see Example 2) Why would I want to? Because I want to Overclock all the busses in order to do more work. FSB Overclocking including the entire buss system is now and always has been King. A more aggressive Pci buss allows more work to be done, especially noticeable in benches.
BUT YOU COULD DAMAGE THESE DEVICES BEYOND REPAIR WHEN Running them out of spec. Be warned if you pursue this course.
For most users I would leave the PCI Clock Divider on Auto until you have a better understanding of how it affects your Pci buss.
IWill Smart Settings
Example 2. I'll take my own setup as I know it of the top of my head. 2400+ cpu has a 15X multiplier by default. But Xp333 bios doesn't recognise this, so to get it to post I had to unlock cpu and drop the multi to 11x. In the bios in the IWill Smart Settings I have
Spread Spectrum [Disabled]
Asynchronous Mode [By IWill Function]
Cpu Clock [200] (Fsb) Hit Enter & Key in a Dec Number
CPU Clock Ratio [11X] (Multiplier)
Pci Clock Divider [1/5]
Increase Cpu V.Core 10% [Disabled]
Cpu V.Core Setting [Auto] (=1.65v)
BIOS-ROM Flash Protect [Non Flash]
This an example and I don't expect anyone to run out and set these settings as most likely you will not post. If we look again then 11x200= 2200Mhz, that's the Oc speed of my cpu. (its default is 2000Mhz so that's a 200Mhz Oc, not much but enough) As for the 1/5 divider I am running at this speed, that equates to 200fsb/5divisor = 40Mhz at the Pci buss and 80Mhz at the Agp, Stressing them right out Yeah!
Realistically I should be running the 1/6 divider or Auto divider when running @200fsb. The reason I run on the 1/5 is purely that I get a more work done than I do running the 1/6. Again lots o folks will frown on this but that's why the xp333 has these options, for each individual to please themselves.
First Time Overclock
Here's a screenshot of the CPU Clock Ratio (Multipliers) although they go up to X15.0 in the bios, in actual fact X14.0 and X15.0 do not work as they are remapped elsewhere. X13.0 is the highest multiplier that can be used but this is also decieving as the X13.0 multi is infact the X12.5 in disguise. So the highest multi usable on Xp333 is X12.5 (X13.0).
Okay so that's a rough insight into Oc the xp333. here's a quick general guide for YOU! Once your cpu is unlocked, Boot your Pc & Enter your bios by hitting the Del key when prompted, scroll to the IWill Smart Settings. Enter values like this to start with.
Enter the Fsb manually 133 is default enter 136, Hit F10 to save changes and reboot. You should notice a change on the first post screen telling you the cpu speed has increased slightly, also the DDR266 will have increased as well DDR272 etc (Depending on which flavour of DDR you have). After you have boot to the desktop and checked all is stable, reboot and get back into the bios. Do the same again but increase to 138, save and reboot again, check all is okay, reboot, back into bios again and increase to 140. When 140 is reached and all is looking smooth I would drop the multiplier one notch from its default, Select CPU Clock Ratio and change it to the multiplier, one down from your cpu's default.
Don't bother even trying to change Multipliers on a locked CPU e.g. black screen no boot. Also a good check for a bad unlock. No boot = Redo or Multilocked mobo.
(So if you have an 1800+ that's 11.5X multi drop it to 11X etc) Save and reboot. Don't worry if the speed of your cpu has dropped below default on the post screen, as you up the Fsb it will increase. Again check all is stable. Once you are happy then again reboot and increase Fsb and drop the multi when the cpu MHz is getting to high.
(How do you know when cpu MHz is to much? Instabilities, blue screens, no boot, high temperatures also, they can be checked in the bios under PC Health Status, if the Current Cpu 1 Temperature is getting close to the 50ºC or above then lower the multi another notch. About a 200Mhz Oc is okay for now until a better understanding is reached). Keep going increasing Fsb and lowering the multi until Windows will let you go no further or no boot (black screen), crashing, freezing, blue screen, rebooting itself. At this stage reboot and get back into the bios, back off 5mhz or so on Fsb (that’s as far as your DDR will go "stable" unless you modify your board for more voltage to your DDR. (Read paragraph on V.Dimm Mod). Reboot and run a few benchmarks. If you feel the DDR should give higher Fsb then make sure again that both V.Dimm jumpers are at 2.8v setting, and the ACF settings the same as above, this will help get the Fsb higher.
If you over-clock too far and PC won’t boot (Don’t panic) Power down for a minute at the mains, power back on and quickly hold the Insert key until you here the beep and then enter your bios by Delete key to back off on your OC.
The Insert (above) key method is the easiest option as all your settings in the bios remain the same. If you clear the Cmos jumper then you lose all settings and will have to change them all back to your originals manually.
Or Clear Cmos Jumper. The usual procedure is power off at the mains, unplug cord from PSU, Go get a cup off Coffee, and by the time you come back the caps should be out of juice. Clear the cmos jumper, remove the battery for five minutes. Put the cmos jumper back to its original position, replace Bat and boot.
It should also be noted that a lot of xp333's were shipped with faulty batteries. If you are having problems flashing the bios then this could be the problem. Replace it and all should be good to go.
V.Core Over Volt Jumper15
(Undocumented for over-clocking CPU further) Jp15 off=default on=V.Core of 2.04 volts Its located between the 1st Pci slot and the 2nd Pci slot. By default there is no jumper on there so just add one of the extra jumpers that came with your Mobo. Some boards have this jumper (V2.1) and some do not. Just your luck which version you bought.
V.Core Voltage Modifications
Robbot....
Has anyone tried soldering a pot to the jumper and the wire from the pot to ground to lower overall resistance again raising the V.Core? Wouldn’t this be the same as the V.Dimm jumper mod used to raise the ram voltage?
OK, solder one end of wire #1 to the jumper and the other end of wire #1 to one of the 3 leads on the pot. Wire #2 goes to one of the other 2 leads on the pot and then to ground. Test the pot so you solder the wires to the correct 2 leads that allow you to adjust resistance. If you’re on the correct leads the resistance will go up and down as you turn the screw. I used a 10k pot (50k will work better), start at the highest resistance, put the jumper on JP 45 boot to the bios, go to health monitoring, and start reducing the resistance, you will see the voltage increase. I used a 25 turn resistor, less chance of over shoot, make one complete turn 360 degrees and wait a couple of seconds and you'll see the voltage increase. I started with my bios set at 1.65v and 10k; the voltage I measured was 1.92, 16 turns later I was at 2.2v. Have fun!
Biggins.....
This is the standard 47K pot to pin #7 of the HIC chip.
I have used a micro grabber (from http://rswww.com/ you can get all the resistors there too) attach too pin #7 (just count 7 pins down from the notch) then to a 47k pot, then the other end of the pot is simply screwed in the mobo mount.
This mod gives me up to 2.35Vcore to play with. And that’s about it, sorry about some of the pictures, but my digital camera doesn't like close ups that much.
Wpcredit / Wpcrset
In order to reach the Memory bandwidth numbers you will read about, you will need to use Wpcrset and change a few register values. Use SiSoft Sandra to benchmark your memory. Don't use the Asynchronous mode in the BIOS, (Its very slow).
RGone...
Where can I find out more about these programs?
Actually there is very little to be found as the writer of Wpcredit/set quit supporting it to the general public in about 1999 or so. Via Arena has a mini-how-to-use on their site. Just do a Google search for Wpcredit and look for the result listing via hardware.
Biggins...
These will work on any bios version and either a 2.0v or 2.1v board. On my 2.1v I prefer the 0116 bios as everything in it seems to work properly (which is rare) and it seems quite stable, you can get it here Downloads
Also get Wpcrset and Wpcredit here : Downloads
These are the hacks I use. I have tried them with a lot of different ram (crucial, Hynix-K and -H, Samsung) and they all work fine:
Offset (yellow)______________Hex(red)
61-----------------------------6C (or 61/4C Rgone)
78-----------------------------80 (or C0 stops crashing in 3DMark)
7B-----------------------------57
D5-----------------------------70
8B-----------------------------60
I was going to do a PCR file for these but then I realised it wouldn't work as it wont let you change certain offsets at certain speeds and dividers.
Its best to try them all, one at a time (Using Wpcredit) just to make sure but they all will be fine I’m sure, when you know they work you can use Wpcrset so they stick on a restart. Simply install it and go to add then just type in the offset where it says register. Type in the hex where it says data (Then repeat for all the hacks)
Some will already be set depending on the bios you are using and what FSB you are currently at so you may as well set them all other wise the bios will change them at different FSB. Also some will not change e.g. 61>6C depending on what bios/divider you are using, but if all are set in Wpcrset then it should give the best performance at any FSB/PCI divider.
After you have done that I recommend you set timings to cas2.5 normal cas2.5 and go for the biggest FSB you can, this produces by far the best results.
There are also these Hacks for fine tuning.
7B = 7F | more "snappiness" than 5f
7d = 41 | better performance
63 = 35 | "more smoothness"
8B = 30 | better float performance .... apps open/close faster.
Crusader......
Below are merely from Lost circuits charts and should give some safe settings to play with.
Normal:
63=55
79=11
7A=76
7B=3F
8B=20
D5=71
F1=80
F3=35
FAST:
63=35
79=92
7A=9E
7B=5F
8B=20
D5=70
F1=80
F3=36
Ultra
63=05
79=D2
7A=DE
7B=7F
8B=30
D5=71
F1=00
F3=34
Ultra2
63=05
79=D2
7A=DE
7B=7F
8B=30
D5=70
F1=00
F3=34
V.Dimm Voltage Modifications
Biggins...
This is a very easy mod to do and doesn't require any soldering at all. All you need is the correct resistor for what V.Dimm you want.
(All must be 1/2 watt).
1.2K = 3v
1K = 3.04v (This is what I use)
820E = 3.1v
680E = 3.15v
560E = 3.2v
470E = 3.29v
290E = 3.34v
Once you have your resistor you just need to bend it like so.
On the board set the V.Dimm jumpers to 2-3 and 5-6 (the standard 2.8v setting). Then put the side with the vertical bend in the middle of jumper 5-6 and screw the other end to ground, like so.
It may be a good idea to insulate the resistor, but I can't be bothered. Also you could just use a 47K pot if you have a voltmeter to test its resistance.
Check Your V.Dimm Voltage
Once you have moded your V.Dimm how do you know you are running the voltage you want?
Unfortunately XP333 does not show your V.Dimm voltage in the Bios or Monitor so you will need a Multi-meter and a steady hand. And this pic (above) shows where you should touch the leads.
FSB Utility...
If you would like to see how far you can push your Ram while in windows then check this out.
Nog...
Download..
Download..
Extract both to C:\setfsb
Find GIVEIO\I386\FREE\GIVEI0.SYS in the setfsb folder take the file and put it in C:\setfsb\GiveI0.SYS so its in the same folder as the .exe other wise it won't work.
Make a batch file example setfsb.bat
@echo off
echo script to execute setfsb.exe
echo This script will get setfsb.exe to execute when windows loads
echo -w is the length of time to wait before changes are applied
echo -s is the FSB you wish to set
start C:\setfsb\Setfsb.exe -w01 -s183
I have put instructions in my bat in case I forget.
Create a short cut to this in your start-up folder and windows will execute it when you reboot saves you reapplying every time and handy if u cant boot at that Fsb but you know the system can handle it.
P.s I changed the file name from SetFSBu_XP333.exe to setfsb.exe.
I'm sure you brainy folk can work it oot.
ButtUgly...Fsb Utility Notes
First you select Ultra then get FSB. It will let you raise the FSB higher than normal. If any of you have trouble getting it to work just give me your e-mail addys and I will gladly send you the total working file. It is a very useful proggy that I use a lot for benching with my techs. First I run the V.Core up in the bios. Then boot windows and let run at idle until processor cools. Right before I do my bench I set my Fsb to 198 or so and let it fly.
Poor 3Dmark Scores...
If you check in 3dmark under System Information, Highlight Display Devices, then your graphics card and you will see in the left window
Total Local Video Memory: 128 MB
Total Local Texture Memory: 128 MB
Total AGP Memory: 128 MB
if any of these say 0, then the Ali Agp is not enabled, this is well documented on the Xp333. Its caused by the newer Detonator Drivers after the 28.xx
You are using the 43.xx so for sure the Ali Agp is disabled as that is what the drivers do.
To enable you have 3 choices. Download Riva Tuner2.0 from here,
http://download.guru3d.com/rivatuner/
Install it and then click on Power User, and match detonators (by clicking the little magnifying glass icon at the bottom)You should now see 43xx dets etc in the main window. Scroll down each of those options until you find the One that says Enable Ali Agp, there's a little light bulb there click it to choose enable. Choose the Ui Tab at the top and choose to run at windows start-up and reboot. Check in 3dmark as above and you should now have an amount (relating to your graphics card memory) rather than 0.
Or you could manually enable it if your can handle going into your Regedit program. Here's how.
Todd Alaska.......
All Riva tuner does on the Ali Agp thing is add a binary registry entry.
EnableALiAGP with a value of 01 00 00 00
That key needs to be made in
Hkey local machine/system/controlset001/Control/video/{AAA6E067-250B-4286-B0F3-07B459D50A69}0000
Hkey local machine/system/controlset002/Control/video/{AAA6E067-250B-4286-B0F3-07B459D50A69}0000
Hkey local machine/system/controlset003/Control/video/{AAA6E067-250B-4286-B0F3-07B459D50A69}0000(Maybe not there on some set-ups)
Hkey local machine/system/currentcontrolset/Control/video/{AAA6E067-250B-4286-B0F3-07B459D50A69}\0000
I’m not sure if the long string number will be the same on all machines. But in each of them you’ll see a 0000 string, click on that and you’ll see the list of stuff referring to Nvidia.
Add a new reg binary by right clicking and choosing Add New Reg Binary, rename it to EnableAliAGP, Hit Enter, right click it and choose Modify, enter
00 00 00 01. Hit Enter, reboot to enable and that's you set.
Remember and add this to the 0000 string that has a shit load of Nvidia related stuff in it. Do it to all Control/CurrentControlSets and don't be surprised if an "EnableAliAGP" is already there after you have added a few. You will have the same effect of the Riva Tuner.
Last and the least used option is to download the Ali agp utility.
http//ftp.aliusa.com/driver/agp_utility140.zip
After u have got it enabled then run 3dmark (before and after you have enabled) and if it has taken then u should see a good increase in your fps.
Some folks have to do a clean install and then when Windblows is on there install the Ali Agp 1.091 Driver and then Enable the Ali Agp and then bench to see an increase.
Dougpanting
CD-RW won't burn or copy (XP333-R) Solved?...
Well I have done some work on this by trying fresh installs with various IDE drivers and for me it doesn't appear to be an Ali or IWill issue. All of the IDE drivers work, but not until I update Nero to 5.5.9. It seems that most of the problems are occurring with newer, faster drives. I went through the Nero "Update History" and there appear to be many drives added between the version that was shipped with my drive and the current 5.5.10, so there is some logic to the phenomena. I recommend the latest Nero update to all that are having problems.
XP333-R Lives On!!!...
Check this link out!!! XP333-R with DDR 400 outperforms KT333?
See for yourself!
Xp333 & TBreds/Bartons......
Up until now its always been a guess as to whether any of the new Tbred/Barton cpu's would actually post, Iwillians have debated and argued this possibility for "Eons". Well the answer is yes they do. BUT you have to do a little "mis en place" first. If you do intend on going the unlock road then you should be okay.
First lets clarify something's.
The highest cpu Locked that will run in an Non neutered xp333 is 2000+ (133fsb).
The highest cpu Locked that will run in a Neutered Xp333 is an 2600+ (133fsb)
Still trying to figure out how high we can go with a Non Neutered Xp333 and an unlocked cpu, the boats is still out on that one.
Again Tbreds and I think Bartons come unlocked, BUT the Xp333 bios does not recognise this as it is a 4bit board hence the unlock procedure. To run a TBred/Barton straight out of the box you need a 5bit motherboard. So again the way to fly on the Xp333 is to unlock these cpu's.
Difference between CAS 2 and CAS 2.5 @ 200fsb?...
Lately, I have noticed that a lot of people are obsessed with getting CAS 2 (me being one of them ) but I was wondering if there is really a difference between the two after you reach a certain speed? I was also wondering if anyone could post benchmarks (Sisoft Mem Bench) at 200 Fsb at CAS 2 and CAS 2.5? I also posted this in the Abit forum b/c I know a few people there are running 200 Fsb.
Here you go...
Ask and you shall receive...That's what I love about this forum.
Cas SPD - Norm
Cas 2.5/3 Norm
Cas 2 -Norm
C-media & Drivers
Version 5.12.01.0639. Of the C-media drivers have been released on Windows Update.
Note: if you are getting pops and clicks at above normal Fsb when 5.1 is enabled on the onboard c-media chip, remove the Pci audio apps and just use the newest Xp drivers.
Spread Spectrum
|
[Disabled]
|
Asynchronous Mode
|
[By IWill Function]
|
Cpu Clock
|
[133] (Fsb) Hit Enter & Key in a Dec Number
|
CPU Clock Ratio
|
[Auto] (Or Your Cpu's Default Multiplier)
|
Pci Clock Divider
|
[Auto]
|
Increase Cpu V.Core 10%
|
[Disabled]
|
Cpu V.Core Setting
|
[Auto]
|
BIOS-ROM Flash Protect
|
[Non Flash]
|
